Welcome to my page dedicated to nice racks...kayak & canoe racks that is. 

 

 They didn't let a long boat "bug" them.

Hopefully, this page will allow us to share some ideas, tips, etc., on storing and transporting your boats. 
Feel free to submit a picture of your rack with comments, for all to admire. 
Comments and recommendations welcome...

I'll start out with mine: 

        After some research and checking the specs on my factory rack, I spoke with a Yakima rep at a Wild Ware Demo, who informed me of my options. I ended up going with the 58" cross bars on Yakima Low Riders, Hully Rollers in the back and Mako Saddles in the front.  They've worked out great, allowing me to roll the boat onto the back and sit it up into the saddles in the front. The saddles provide about 80lbs of downward cradling power, and I believe it as I've had both boats on top and have gone in excess of 80+ mph. (The + is classified).

      Here's some pics of the rack system I put together. Storage wise, we simply bought a couple L brackets, secured them to the studs with wood screws and they seem to hold quite well. Just a lift over the L with the carrying hook and they're hanging til we need them again.

Some rack shots:

brack1a.jpg loadedsm.jpg hully.jpg mako.jpg
Outfitted Explorer All loaded Up Hully   Rollers Mako Saddles
oloaded.jpg secure.jpg krack1.jpg krack2.jpg
New loaded Outback Now fits in the garage! One boat on the wall Both boats mounted
yakrak.jpg pickup1.jpg
Dad's PVC Creation Another pickup rack

Basic Tips:

Rack Types
  • Foam blocks
    Foam block systems are inexpensive, temporary car top pads that snap onto the gunwales of your canoe. The canoe can then be laid upside down on your car roof, and held in place by two or three nylon load straps which either hook into the car's rain gutters or circle through the car's open windows. Foam blocks and load straps typically come packaged together.

    Foam block systems are popular with recreational paddlers because they're inexpensive, easy to use and easy to remove. But they don't provide as much load security as permanently-mounted rack systems. Foam block systems are not recommended for longer trips or journeys that involve rough driving terrain.
  • Roof-mounted rack systems
    A much safer way to carry a canoe on a car or truck is with a roof-mounted car rack system. These systems are more secure, more stable, and they can be used to carry just about any type of outdoor gear. Today's most popular roof-mounted systems can be fitted to almost any regular-sized car, truck or van.
Loading and Unloading

The basic procedure
 To load a canoe/kayak onto your car, use a standard two-person overhead lift. Once you've lifted the canoe over your heads, carry it over until it's directly above your rack, then set it down gently (inside the rack brackets, if they're being used). Center the boat fore and aft.

To unload the canoe, simply reverse this process, making sure the boat is completely untied from the car before you begin. Pause briefly with your partner when the boat is on your shoulders to make sure you agree on which direction you'll be rotating the boat down.

Tie-down strategies
  • Straps
    Nylon load straps distribute tie-down pressure over a wider hull area than ropes. They also tend to chafe less against the canoe's surface. When combined with good quality, self-locking cam buckles, they're easy to use and quick to cinch down, providing excellent overall grip without the hassle of lots of knots. When using straps and buckles, remember to:
    • Place some sort of padding directly underneath the buckle (where it makes contact with the canoe hull). This will help minimize hull damage during transport.
    • Tie off the extra strap directly above the buckle once it's been cinched tight. This will provide added security in case the buckle releases while the car is moving.
  • Ropes
    When load straps with cam-buckles are not available, use non-stretching, water resistant rope to secure your boat. These ropes should be "seasoned" (brand new ropes tend to stretch), non-slick (slippery ropes tend to come untied), and non-elastic (even when pulled tight, elastic lines and bungy cords can expand under pressure and let go of a boat).
Basic securing procedures
No matter what type of tie-downs you use, follow these basic procedures whenever you secure your canoe to a roof rack:
  • Use at least two lines or straps to hold the body of your canoe in place. These lines should run perpendicular to your car.
  • Tie "keeper" lines from the ends of the canoe to your car's bumpers. Thread these lines through a sturdy part of the end of the canoe, then angle them out in an inverted "V" to both ends of the closest bumper. Pulled them taut and secure them with reliable knots.
NOTE: Avoid over-tightening any of the straps or lines holding your canoe in place. Too much tension can deform plastic hulls and crack fiberglass ones.

Driving with Your Canoe On Board

It's not difficult to drive safely with a canoe overhead. But it can be dangerous if you don't act cautiously.

Pre-driving checks
Make sure your boat is securely fastened to your rack before you leave home. Also check it occasionally throughout your drive, since knots can loosen, ropes can stretch and some boats can soften up when exposed to the heat of the sun.

To check your canoe, grab hold of either end of the boat and shake it from side to side. If the canoe is truly secure, the entire car should shift instead of just the boat. Inspect both bumper lines each time you check your boat.

On the road
Always drive cautiously when carrying your canoe. Keep your speed down, since canoes can affect the handling of some cars in high winds or at high speeds.

Make sure you center your boat fore to aft, since an improperly positioned canoe can impair your view of the road. When driving in busy traffic areas, remember that the ends of your canoe probably extend beyond the ends of your vehicle.

Links:
Yakima Racks
Rack Attack
BackCountry Racks
Rei Racks(Thule)
Outdoor Play
More storage racks for inside.




Updated July 07, 2006